I Am NOT My Hair...

Hey Senoritas,

It’s another weekend and time for a fresh new post from your favorite hair blogger.

 For the past four weeks we have been talking about different tit bits regarding the hair structure and overviews of general basic hair care. Today I want to talk about the different “types of natural hair”.

Yep, you read right….there are several types of natural hair. There are also several types of black hair, as much as I refused to believe this as possible my research has opened my eyes to a whole new world that is out there for hair types on black women.

Fifteen years ago Emmy award winning hairstylist, Andre Walker who also happens to be Oprah’s hair stylist wrote a book “Andre Talks Hair” in which he classified hair into various types. His system is the most commonly used to classify hair textures. He believes that though all hair is basically the same and benefit from many of the same nutrients and products, there are significant differences in their texture.

It is always best to know your particular hair type before attempting to determine the best ways to manage and style it.

In other words, knowing our hair type will ensure we don’t end up frustrated if our hair does not style in a particular way as someone of a different hair type or ethnicity. Straight hair of Caucasian descent cannot be locked or made into dreads the same way that you should not expect kinky (chemically relaxed) hair to always remain straight without touch-ups or “retouches.”

Thirdly, I believe its best we deal with hair-typing so we always have it in our archives and we’re all thoroughly schooled in hair matters.

Based on Andre’s research, hair is classified into four types:

Type 1-Straight Hair (1a, 1b, 1c)

Type 2-Wavy Hair (2a, 2b, 2c)

Type 3-Curly Hair (3a, 3b)

Type 4-Kinky Hair (4a, 4b)

Please note here that Andre’s Hair Typing covers all types of hair no matter the ethnicity or race of the carrier as shown below:

However most black hairs are “kinky hair” and can be classified as either 4a or 4b.

Here is a brief overview of the different hair types:

Straight Hair has the most sheen reflection and of all the hair types it doesn’t damage too easily. Since its straight it doesn’t tangle easily and go through the stress of detangling which most times cause breakage no matter how little. Natural oils that are found in the hair follicles easily glide from the scalp up the hair shaft helping it to stay moist and prevent it from breaking.

Type 1-Straight Hair

Wavy Hair is placed somewhere within straight and curly hair. Along with straight hair it also reflects sheen well and does not break too easily.

Type 2-Wavy Hair

Curly Hair strands give a very distinctive S form. The S shape can come in the form of a upper case S or a lower case s. This hair type is mostly found on individuals of mixed races say “Caucasian Africans”.

Type 3-Curly Hair

Kinky Hair is firmly coiled curly hair and inspite of a lot of misguided beliefs it is very fine and delicate. Its wiry and fragile naturally which makes it much more difficult to detangle and the damage when detangled impatiently can be more. They are also the driest kind of hair because its strand pattern makes it almost impossible for natural oils (sebum) to travel from the scalp up the shaft. As a result it’s prone to damage and needs a delicate touch.

Type 4a-Kinky Hair

Type 4b-Kinky Hair (Same type as mine)

Hair strands here appear to have a sort of Z shape.

A false impression about this type of hair is that it doesn’t grow. Kinky hair will grow with the identical rate as other textures if taken care of properly. Enjoy the video...

4a hair strand is usually more tightly curled and soft to the touch while the 4b which actually is wavy and wiry.

I guess it will be right to state here that this chart only categorizes hair based on their strand patterns not putting into cognizance their porosity, strand size and density which all in fact explains why some of us need the “Regular” relaxer kits to straighten our hair while others have to go with the “Super”.

Thankfully, rather than bore everyone to death with results on my research on all that, I’ll just stick with the “pattern hair-typing”.

PS. The goal of this particular post today is ensure that all our lovely nappy-haired sisters out there don’t feel out of place if their hairstyles don’t turn out exactly the same way some other nappy sister’s hair does.

Also note, the different hair types above are for your real, natural growths so to know the particular hair type you have your assessment should be on your natural hair not chemically treated hair.

I am of the opinion that “hair typing” is strictly to help us have realistic expectations of our hair and provide a base for how we treat it and not necessarily to choose specific products or brands. Like I always say what works for “Catherine S” may not work for “Christina S” even if they are from the same family.

At Diva’s Hair-Story, we shall endeavor to create a balance and provide hair care advice and tips for both chemically treated and natural, kinky hair since I have actually been on both sides before. I make bold to say that I am not a particular fan of “Team Relaxer” or “Team Natural” I’m just obsessed with “Real Hair” and the different styles and ways that I can wear and groom it.

So glad we got this out of the way, catch you next week when we’ll talk about the Milan Fashion Week and some of the runway looks that caught my eye.

Don't forget to subscribe and also leave your comments and questions below. You can also follow us on twitter (@Diva_Twitts) and like our facebook page (Facebook.com/divashairstory)

As always...Love Your Hair!!!

Diva

xoxo

Dry Shafts, Thirsty Follicles...My Story

Hello Dolls,

Its Friday again, thank God the weekend’s here and like one of my favorite style icons would say T.G.I.F-Thank God I’m Fabulous … ;;-).

It’s time to go get your hair did Divas…"hair done, nails done, everything did"…lol. I’m like a fat kid with cake when it comes to hair (natural hair that is…don’t matter if its straight, permed or nappy)….I absoooooooolutely looooove hair and I’m always eager to learn more, experiment more and share my experiences with any and everyone who cares to listen. After all, the world would be a much happier place if we as “sistahs” can always have “great hair days”…right? Yeah right…I’m allowed to dream aren’t I ? Lol…

I’m particularly in high spirits this week cos this is my “coming out” week….yes ladies, its confession time and I make bold to say “I’m a wig-wearing-nappy-haired-naija-babe”. There I said it….bite me :p

Too much heat and harsh chemical experimentation turned my hair from (a) and (b) to (c) so I decided to grow out my hair naturally. I couldn’t bear to do the “Big Chop” so opted to “Transition” into “nappiness” slowly.

(a) Hair <freshly touched-up> was tucked in 3 times

(b) Back-view of hair, had lengths but was not quite thick

(c) Some months later, my reason for embarking on a "transition"

In this day and age where Brazilian, Peruvian, Mongolian, Aunty Funmi hairs and the likes are on everyone’s lips and are used to define “status” in most quarters, you might wonder why I seem to have taken two steps back from modern, more “civilized” trends…well, it was first birth out of frustration of having my hair turn from a “reasonable” length, color and texture to just “blah” then to curiosity, experimentation then a dare to see what my hair would look like after taking it off the “crème crack” aka relaxer for a whole year.

Firstly I’d like to say here that I’m a product junkie, nonetheless, I stick to a particular brand for all my hair care needs same way I do for my skin. The only place you’ll find me mix labels are with makeup, I can take a lipstick shade from Mary-Kay, a liner from Mac and mascara from Iman. My reason for not mixing skin or hair care labels is due to the fact that I believe products are manufactured in the laboratory within certain PH levels that cover a product line in order to yield great results which you might not get when you mix different products together….your results could range from subtle to harsh…well, those are just my two cents. 

I took time to explain that just so you know that I stuck by the “rules” and did not use anything ridiculous to damage my hair. I bet most of you might say then “what makes you feel you can give great advice on hair-care and its products?” Well, firstly I learned my lesson (the hard way if I may add)…

 "Be patient with new products…there is no such thing as a magic hair potion. Great hair requires great care and great patience. If you find what works for you stick with it."

 I’ll try to give a list of products/labels after every post just so we all know what is safe for our hair. Feel free to ask questions or clarify stuff after reading…if I am not certain of accurate answers trust my curious senses to go out there and get you answers or just be patient as we take time every week to dissect the different angles of natural hair care.

Also, like I mentioned in my second post your scalp is like the regular skin that covers your entire body and should be taken care of accordingly…just because it hides under the hair shaft doesn’t mean you shouldn't show it “love”. If you were to try out a skin cleanser for instance or a facial mask and it burns your skin when it is not say a “chemical peel” or say you get some form of adverse reaction to it, naturally you won’t feel comfortable using it again.  Likewise just because it worked for “Anita” doesn’t mean it will work for you…however there are safer, natural, more organic, less chemical ways and products to experiment with in order to find your personal “secret potion”. 

Note: “If it’s harsh…it could leave a rash” 

 and we don’t want that…

Thirdly, "because it costs an arm and a leg doesn’t mean its perfect and will work for you"…I will also do my best to give you tried and tested home-made remedies and regimens that can help you grow and care for your natural hair.

With all that being said, here are some photos from my hair journey thus far…enjoy

(d) My nappy hair is usually woven really flat so my wigs look really natural and comfortable

(e) An arial view of the weave

(f)Side view of the weave

(g) One of my very many wigs/looks, neat huh? ;-)

(h) My hair some 6months into "transitioning"

(i) Right before my "Big Chop"

(j) My hair some weeks ago after my "Big Chop"

Oops, I almost forgot….to keep to my promise last week about “the need for hair oils and moisturizers” I’d like to start by saying not moisturizing your hair daily (especially if the weather where you live is dry) makes your scalp looking like the parched land in the desert where nothing is encouraged to grow. Just as the desert land gets parched and dry due to rapid evaporation of moisture and less rain the hair scalp experiences “evaporation” of moisture and if that moisture is not replaced by you your scalp ends up dry and “parched” which in turn encourages weakness of the hair shaft and makes hair breakage inevitable also new growth is discouraged…so please endeavor to “feed” your hair.

The difference between hair oils and moisturizers is that even though they both moisturize the hair one of them is “water based” while the other is “oil based”. Moisturizers like I said earlier, nourish the hair while oils are used to lock in the moisture and add shine. The scalp just like every part of the human body needs light, oxygen and water in this case moisture to “survive” and be at its best. Using oil after moisturizing your scalp decreases the rate of “moisture evaporation” giving the scalp more time to absorb the moisture you’ve applied. The oil creates a film over your scalp that makes it a bit difficult for the moisture to be soaked up by evaporation or the harsh, dry weather or climate you might be in. It is also advised that if you live in a very harsh environment and/or probably have to go outdoors in any weather for that matter, that you wear a hat…this will protect your hair from “moisture evaporation” as well as the harsh UV rays of the sun in the day time. UV rays can be harmful to your hair as they tend to cause discoloration of the hair shaft. Note here though, that in applying hair oils you do not do so in excess as we do not want to clog the “pores of your scalp” and stop your “hair” from getting the much needed oxygen it needs to survive.

Like I said before, the best type of hair oils and moisturizers are those that are all natural (meaning no mineral oil, petroleum, lanolin etc.)

Now for those of us that might have very dry hair even when it’s not dry season, here’s a tip that will help, it’s a DIY/home remedy (that is if your funds are limited or you’re like my sister who prefers doing her natural hair herself). You will need a spray bottle and some distilled water, some virgin coconut oil or almond oil or even virgin olive oil.

First mist your hair with the water (and don't worry if you can't get the distilled water, I just said that just in case you have very hard water where you are). Pour the coconut, almond or olive oil in your hand and run it through your hair. Give your scalp a nice massage too. You may have to mist throughout the day but there is no cheaper or better moisturizer than water and the oil will seal it in.

Also for the first or second night you may want to do this and sleep with a plastic shower cap. This will speed up the process.

Coconut oil can also be used for hot oil treatments. After applying, cover hair with a plastic cap for 30 minutes without heat (or 15 minutes with heat). Then continue by washing hair with a gentle shampoo. (We shall speak more on deep conditioners and hot oil treatments in subsequent posts)

Coconut oil is actually the best and cheapest of hair oils out there because it actually penetrates the hair, unlike most oils which only coat it.

 Some examples of water based moisturizers are:

Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil
Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in
Profectiv Anti-Tangle Leave-in
Profectiv Mega Growth
Cantu Shea Butter Grow Strong
Elasta QP Mango Butter

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in
Emily Millionaire Coconut Oil and Herbs

My daily hair oil and moisturizers are:

Emily Millionaire Coconut Oil & Herbs with Aloe Vera

100% Pure Coconut Oil

Tara Amla Hair Oil

Until next week dolls, remember “moisturize, moisturize, moisturize”. Leave your questions and comments below and don’t forget to subscribe….

Love

Xoxo

Diva…