I Am NOT My Hair...

Hey Senoritas,

It’s another weekend and time for a fresh new post from your favorite hair blogger.

 For the past four weeks we have been talking about different tit bits regarding the hair structure and overviews of general basic hair care. Today I want to talk about the different “types of natural hair”.

Yep, you read right….there are several types of natural hair. There are also several types of black hair, as much as I refused to believe this as possible my research has opened my eyes to a whole new world that is out there for hair types on black women.

Fifteen years ago Emmy award winning hairstylist, Andre Walker who also happens to be Oprah’s hair stylist wrote a book “Andre Talks Hair” in which he classified hair into various types. His system is the most commonly used to classify hair textures. He believes that though all hair is basically the same and benefit from many of the same nutrients and products, there are significant differences in their texture.

It is always best to know your particular hair type before attempting to determine the best ways to manage and style it.

In other words, knowing our hair type will ensure we don’t end up frustrated if our hair does not style in a particular way as someone of a different hair type or ethnicity. Straight hair of Caucasian descent cannot be locked or made into dreads the same way that you should not expect kinky (chemically relaxed) hair to always remain straight without touch-ups or “retouches.”

Thirdly, I believe its best we deal with hair-typing so we always have it in our archives and we’re all thoroughly schooled in hair matters.

Based on Andre’s research, hair is classified into four types:

Type 1-Straight Hair (1a, 1b, 1c)

Type 2-Wavy Hair (2a, 2b, 2c)

Type 3-Curly Hair (3a, 3b)

Type 4-Kinky Hair (4a, 4b)

Please note here that Andre’s Hair Typing covers all types of hair no matter the ethnicity or race of the carrier as shown below:

However most black hairs are “kinky hair” and can be classified as either 4a or 4b.

Here is a brief overview of the different hair types:

Straight Hair has the most sheen reflection and of all the hair types it doesn’t damage too easily. Since its straight it doesn’t tangle easily and go through the stress of detangling which most times cause breakage no matter how little. Natural oils that are found in the hair follicles easily glide from the scalp up the hair shaft helping it to stay moist and prevent it from breaking.

Type 1-Straight Hair

Wavy Hair is placed somewhere within straight and curly hair. Along with straight hair it also reflects sheen well and does not break too easily.

Type 2-Wavy Hair

Curly Hair strands give a very distinctive S form. The S shape can come in the form of a upper case S or a lower case s. This hair type is mostly found on individuals of mixed races say “Caucasian Africans”.

Type 3-Curly Hair

Kinky Hair is firmly coiled curly hair and inspite of a lot of misguided beliefs it is very fine and delicate. Its wiry and fragile naturally which makes it much more difficult to detangle and the damage when detangled impatiently can be more. They are also the driest kind of hair because its strand pattern makes it almost impossible for natural oils (sebum) to travel from the scalp up the shaft. As a result it’s prone to damage and needs a delicate touch.

Type 4a-Kinky Hair

Type 4b-Kinky Hair (Same type as mine)

Hair strands here appear to have a sort of Z shape.

A false impression about this type of hair is that it doesn’t grow. Kinky hair will grow with the identical rate as other textures if taken care of properly. Enjoy the video...

4a hair strand is usually more tightly curled and soft to the touch while the 4b which actually is wavy and wiry.

I guess it will be right to state here that this chart only categorizes hair based on their strand patterns not putting into cognizance their porosity, strand size and density which all in fact explains why some of us need the “Regular” relaxer kits to straighten our hair while others have to go with the “Super”.

Thankfully, rather than bore everyone to death with results on my research on all that, I’ll just stick with the “pattern hair-typing”.

PS. The goal of this particular post today is ensure that all our lovely nappy-haired sisters out there don’t feel out of place if their hairstyles don’t turn out exactly the same way some other nappy sister’s hair does.

Also note, the different hair types above are for your real, natural growths so to know the particular hair type you have your assessment should be on your natural hair not chemically treated hair.

I am of the opinion that “hair typing” is strictly to help us have realistic expectations of our hair and provide a base for how we treat it and not necessarily to choose specific products or brands. Like I always say what works for “Catherine S” may not work for “Christina S” even if they are from the same family.

At Diva’s Hair-Story, we shall endeavor to create a balance and provide hair care advice and tips for both chemically treated and natural, kinky hair since I have actually been on both sides before. I make bold to say that I am not a particular fan of “Team Relaxer” or “Team Natural” I’m just obsessed with “Real Hair” and the different styles and ways that I can wear and groom it.

So glad we got this out of the way, catch you next week when we’ll talk about the Milan Fashion Week and some of the runway looks that caught my eye.

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As always...Love Your Hair!!!

Diva

xoxo